canonman
5th April 2008, 08:55 AM
If like many you are fairly new to the world of digital SLR photography, or you have a "bridge" type camera with dials and settings you don't understand, then perhaps this may help a little ?
The very fact that you have invested in a camera with controls, would suggest that you are looking to achieve more with your picture taking. To get the best from it, you now need to invest in time and research to begin to really understand the basics of image capture. I am also assuming a basic level of understanding with regard to light levels, and the basic function of a cameras light meter. If unsure about this, I would suggest that as your first piece of research.
My first recommendation is to switch off the fully automatic mode on your camera, and don't switch it on again unless in a panic situation where you just want to be sure of getting a shot, and you have no time to think !
The two operating modes I will talk about here are "aperture priority" and "shutter speed priority". If either of these terms leave you confused, then stop reading this and go and do some research about the basic mechanics of a camera. Those still reading I assume understand "what" the terms mean, but not necessarily "why" there are these specific modes, or "how" to decide which you need to select. I will attempt to give a quick guide to the decision making journey to embark upon prior to selecting the correct mode.
"Shutter Speed Priority"
1. If you are hand holding your camera, there is a simple guide-line to ensure that images don't end up blurred as a result of camera shake (different formula for the new-age digital specific camera/lens kits). Whatever focul length of lens you have on the camera, should be the minimum shutter speed that you capture the image with. This is assuming you have a DSLR with full-frame sensor. It is important that you find out about the "multiplication factor" of your camera sensor. If you have a sensor with a 1.6x factor then this is the formula. Multiply the focul length of your lens by 1.6, that is the minimum to be safe hand-held speed (unless you have an image stabilised lens) for your shot. The longer the lens the more important this becomes, and the faster the shutter speed required.
2. The subject matter is your next considoration. If the subject is moving, or contains movement, the speed of the shutter will effect the outcome. Fast moving objects require fast shutter speeds to "freeze" the action. A slower shutter speed will leave the same moving object blurred. This decision is dependent on how you visualise the outcome. Only experimentation will tell you what actual speeds work to give the desired effect.
"Aperture Priority"
1. The size of the aperture on a lens has a dramatic effect on the focussing capabilities of a lens. If you don't understand "exactly" what is meant by "depth of field", it is very important that you familiarise yourself with this term. The "f" number on a lens denotes the aperture size, and just to confuse you, the higher the number the smaller the aperture! A small aperture gives the greatest depth of field. Obviously a large aperture will give a small depth of field. The overall relationship between shutter speed and aperture size is this. A small aperture (bigger "f" number) allows the least amount of light into the camera and will require a longer exposure (slower shutter speed). A large aperture (small "f" number) allows a lot of light into the camera, and will require a relatively shorter exposure (faster shutter speed).
2. Be aware that large aperture sizes by nature (reduced depth of field) require far more critical focussing, but can be used to fantastic creative effect.
To summarise, the correct exposure is a balancing act between your physical limitations ( Hand held or supported ,relating to focul length, moving or static subject matter), the desired effect and of course the amount of available light. It is the assessment of these factors, knowing exactly what you are attempting to achieve and thus an understanding of what needs to be the "priority", which lets you set the appropriate "priority mode".
The above outlines the principals as simply as I am able to do so. Any able photographer knows this all off by heart. Making this become second-nature is a fairly good grounding as an introduction to more serious photography.
Enjoy !!:wacko:
The very fact that you have invested in a camera with controls, would suggest that you are looking to achieve more with your picture taking. To get the best from it, you now need to invest in time and research to begin to really understand the basics of image capture. I am also assuming a basic level of understanding with regard to light levels, and the basic function of a cameras light meter. If unsure about this, I would suggest that as your first piece of research.
My first recommendation is to switch off the fully automatic mode on your camera, and don't switch it on again unless in a panic situation where you just want to be sure of getting a shot, and you have no time to think !
The two operating modes I will talk about here are "aperture priority" and "shutter speed priority". If either of these terms leave you confused, then stop reading this and go and do some research about the basic mechanics of a camera. Those still reading I assume understand "what" the terms mean, but not necessarily "why" there are these specific modes, or "how" to decide which you need to select. I will attempt to give a quick guide to the decision making journey to embark upon prior to selecting the correct mode.
"Shutter Speed Priority"
1. If you are hand holding your camera, there is a simple guide-line to ensure that images don't end up blurred as a result of camera shake (different formula for the new-age digital specific camera/lens kits). Whatever focul length of lens you have on the camera, should be the minimum shutter speed that you capture the image with. This is assuming you have a DSLR with full-frame sensor. It is important that you find out about the "multiplication factor" of your camera sensor. If you have a sensor with a 1.6x factor then this is the formula. Multiply the focul length of your lens by 1.6, that is the minimum to be safe hand-held speed (unless you have an image stabilised lens) for your shot. The longer the lens the more important this becomes, and the faster the shutter speed required.
2. The subject matter is your next considoration. If the subject is moving, or contains movement, the speed of the shutter will effect the outcome. Fast moving objects require fast shutter speeds to "freeze" the action. A slower shutter speed will leave the same moving object blurred. This decision is dependent on how you visualise the outcome. Only experimentation will tell you what actual speeds work to give the desired effect.
"Aperture Priority"
1. The size of the aperture on a lens has a dramatic effect on the focussing capabilities of a lens. If you don't understand "exactly" what is meant by "depth of field", it is very important that you familiarise yourself with this term. The "f" number on a lens denotes the aperture size, and just to confuse you, the higher the number the smaller the aperture! A small aperture gives the greatest depth of field. Obviously a large aperture will give a small depth of field. The overall relationship between shutter speed and aperture size is this. A small aperture (bigger "f" number) allows the least amount of light into the camera and will require a longer exposure (slower shutter speed). A large aperture (small "f" number) allows a lot of light into the camera, and will require a relatively shorter exposure (faster shutter speed).
2. Be aware that large aperture sizes by nature (reduced depth of field) require far more critical focussing, but can be used to fantastic creative effect.
To summarise, the correct exposure is a balancing act between your physical limitations ( Hand held or supported ,relating to focul length, moving or static subject matter), the desired effect and of course the amount of available light. It is the assessment of these factors, knowing exactly what you are attempting to achieve and thus an understanding of what needs to be the "priority", which lets you set the appropriate "priority mode".
The above outlines the principals as simply as I am able to do so. Any able photographer knows this all off by heart. Making this become second-nature is a fairly good grounding as an introduction to more serious photography.
Enjoy !!:wacko: