exposing for HDR

[tonymidd]

I've been doing some more reading and experimenting.
Using the incamera bracketing is assuming that the metered reading is correct for HDR, which should be mid way between the exposure required for the highlights and that required for the shadows. From checking the data on the shots I've taken using the auto bracket this is more often than not not true.
A more accurate method is to use a spot meter, either your in-camera spot meter (for the greatest accuracy when taking these readings use the longest focal length on your lens) or for preference a hand held 1 degree acceptance angle spot meter. Take and note a reading from the highlight and from the shadow areas. For instance if the highlight reading was EV14 (1/125 @ f8 ISO100) and the shadow reading was EV6 (1 @ f8) intermediate exposures of 1/60, 1/15, and 1/4 @ f8 will give us five frames at a spacing of EV2 to cover the whole dynamic range of the subject. Much more accurate. I'll try and shoot an example latter today. I'm kicking myself after all the years I've used the zone system....

[Chris Hawkins]

Clever - I guess it's kinda obvious when you think about it! Tried some shots last evening in and around a church. Not happy with the result, but now I can see how un-scientific I was being. Look forward to seeing your results later. Cheers Chris

[tonymidd]

I must admit when I looked at these on the LCD I thought no way will these work.
A shot of my quiet corner in the garden. D200 matrix meter reading was 1/500 @f8. Using hand held a spot meter I got a reading of 1/1000 @f8 (EV16) off the highlight on the white chair and 1/15 @f8 off the shadow on the rh side of the pool. Breaking this down into EV2 steps gives a set of exposures @f8 of 1/1000, 1/250, 1/60 and 1/15 which gave the top frames.
I used these to do an HDR and tone map at default settings (without a title) and an exposure blend at the adjust default settings; this could have been adjusted to be as dark as the HDR..

[tonymidd]

Following on from the first post here are a couple that have been adjusted. With two line frame the HDR/tone map version with the luminosity reduced to -2 and the saturation increased to 65%
With one line frame the exposure blend adjusted with the blending point set to-2 and the radius to 2

In both the first versions using the default settings and the adjusted versions i think the HDR has it, the exposure blends look on the washed out side, maybe with a lower blending point it would look better..

[tonymidd]

This is with the blend point down to -4 but with this exposure blending as you darken the image by lowering the blend point you loose shadow detail.

[karl-tkd]

Tony i've tried the HDR technique and its harder than it looks. But for your shadows surely it would be easier use the 'dodge' tool in PS?? Lowering the opacity makes it easier to use and gives you that bit more control.

I have seen loads of images edited with HDR and they do look stunning if used correctly but i find it just as easy to use the mask tool and paint back they areas where needed. I can understand maybe using it in the sky and tree line area but i suppose there's all sorts of ways to edit images with digital.

I do know that HDR is great for interior editing as i've seen on the net, especially when used for advertising reasons.....??