How to get Black Water and White Swan Shots....

[StagePhotography.co.uk]

How to get Black Water and White Swan S

To get the black water you need trees or something
dark behind the subject. (See image below)...

Then you sun or light needs to be in front of you
or to the left or right slightly...

If you are lucky and you get the swan in the
light slightly and the water still black fantastic,
but more than likely you won't...

The water is never that black to leave it,
so you need a bit of Post work to darken it..

Here's what you get...

Judging it right also lets you get good refelection off
the water.... Like with the shopping trolly...

EXPERIMENT!!!!

[blindabyss]

Great wee tut, George.

What metering mode would you recommend so as not to blow the highlights on the swan? I shot on multi the other day, the head, neck and water were exposed perfectly, but the body highlights have blown beyond all recovery. So I'm guessing now that spot metering for the body may have been a more sensible thing to do?

[Ade]

Nice one George, love your diagram lol...:Dm

[StagePhotography.co.uk]

Well that's Canon metering for you Bindii...
You need a decent camera... ;)

I have it on Manual at 1/125 @ 1600...

I don't seem to need to notice the metering,
and have the swan in the middle for most...

It more than likely your metering area which
is causing the issue and you should meter on the body
of the swan.... The neck is too thin and the metering
will take account of the background also...

[BarryM]

Great tutorial mate thanks for that.


Blindabyss, i only ever use spot metering for everything, cant remember what the area covered on the sxxxx range of fujis but it was spot meter too.

If u feel ur middle metering isnt taking just the subject into account you can meter from main part of body, hold the button in halfway recompose your shot and fire, or as some do occasionally is to zoom right in, meter close up then zoom back out holding down the shutter button half way to gaurantee subject exposed.

[Stemmy]

Cracking tutorial George !!

Always sinks in better with a diagram

[kya]

Brilliant George was wondering how you do that..you will prob find me at local A&E after swan attacks! :black_eye

[Chris Hawkins]

Great tutorial, George thanks. Need more diagrams like this. But, I've got enough equipment to carry without the Christmas tree :-)

[StagePhotography.co.uk]

Cheers chaps...

I'll do more of these if you like... It's fine spouting off facts,
method and figures that you can copy out of a magazine,
but to see it done and see how it's done works much better..

The important bit in this type of shot is the shadow,
and metering/manually the image you want...

It really only works as it's white swan... A brown duck
would not work in this type of shot as the colours are
too close to the background.

And in Paint Shop Pro you can, uing the Highlight/Midtone and
Shadow take out the back Shadow further... Cheating
I know but I know what I can do in PSP and take me
photos like this knowing....

[StagePhotography.co.uk]

Here's a quick example of H/M/S...

[BarryM]

been having a look through cs for an equivelant but the shadow hightlight tool doesnt work so no idea =[

[tonymidd]

been having a look through cs for an equivelant but the shadow hightlight tool doesnt work so no idea =[

Baz the advanced features in CS2 s/h will do the same sort of thing but you do need to check the box. You can very accurately control the effects.

[BarryM]

I tried that too Tony, but couldnt get the water dark enough at all. Il go back and play again.

[tonymidd]

I tried that too Tony, but couldnt get the water dark enough at all. Il go back and play again.

Try using curves and moving the black point from the corner.

[StagePhotography.co.uk]

I've found a CS method to change
the background blacker......

Use a normal Paint Brush.

Set it to BLACK..

Set it to 1 pixel in size...

Go for it...

[Bindii]

been having a look through cs for an equivelant but the shadow hightlight tool doesnt work so no idea =[

Try levels....click the first eyedropper on the water...I just gave it a quick try and it worked alright for me...:)

[StagePhotography.co.uk]

Try levels....click the first eyedropper on the water...I just gave it a quick try and it worked alright for me...:)

Oh Goddess of PS/CS!!!! *bow bow bow bow*

How I worship thee...

On my knees...

*wink*

See it's easy when you know how...

[Bindii]

Oh Goddess of PS/CS!!!! *bow bow bow bow*

How I worship thee...

On my knees...

*wink*

See it's easy when you know how...

While your down there...;)c

[StagePhotography.co.uk]

While your down there...;)c

*puts on miners helmet and lamp*

*gets canary into cage*

*straps plank on own arse*

*dusts the cob webs...*

*sigh* All I am is a cleaning lady to you.....

:)

[StagePhotography.co.uk]

echo...

echo...


echo...

echo...

echo...

echo...

echo...

[Bindii]

Looks like it time to play hangman again....

:grin:

[StagePhotography.co.uk]

Looks like it time to play hangman again....

:grin:

I'm hanging in there a far as I can.....

Can't get any futher...

:)

Not without a JCB...

*whistles*

[blindabyss]

Well that's Canon metering for you Bindii...
You need a decent camera... ;)

I have it on Manual at 1/125 @ 1600...

I don't seem to need to notice the metering,
and have the swan in the middle for most...

It more than likely your metering area which
is causing the issue and you should meter on the body
of the swan.... The neck is too thin and the metering
will take account of the background also...

Who you calling Bindii? LOL

Cheers for the help. I'll go back and practise. And if I fail then I'll lob the camera into the pond and buy a postcard of them instead. :woot:

Great tutorial mate thanks for that.


Blindabyss, i only ever use spot metering for everything, cant remember what the area covered on the sxxxx range of fujis but it was spot meter too.

If u feel ur middle metering isnt taking just the subject into account you can meter from main part of body, hold the button in halfway recompose your shot and fire, or as some do occasionally is to zoom right in, meter close up then zoom back out holding down the shutter button half way to gaurantee subject exposed.

Spot you say? I tend to try and stick to what the manual tells me, but if just using the one mode works, then that's what I'll use!

I think I will use the AE lock, gutted that I didn't think of using that myself. woops. :(

[StagePhotography.co.uk]

I think I will use the AE lock, gutted that I didn't think of using that myself. woops. :(

That's my secret weapon as well... ;)

Esp when doing Stage stuff...

Thumb is always on the button..

[blindabyss]

That's my secret weapon as well... ;)

Esp when doing Stage stuff...

Thumb is always on the button..

Funny you should mention that. I was going to PM you for advice on shooting stage type stuff. Got a lot of concerts, school plays and the like coming up. :doh:

So AE is a must, as is a high ISO (I assume)...anything else you'd suggest? :)

[StagePhotography.co.uk]

If you can get up and close good...

But if not, tripod....

Good 18/28 to 200 lens.... If you got it... a 2.8...

[blindabyss]

Cheers matey. Here be hoping I get half as good results as you. lol

[dave lee]

Sorry George could'nt resist it.:tease:

[StagePhotography.co.uk]

LOL......

Don't be silly everyone knows they can't ice skate!!!

;)